Bronze Fork Bushings $25.00

"High Riser" Handlebar Bracket $19.50

Email me at info@50ccracing.com with any questions, or call me at 920-882-8097.

This button is for a set of (2) Bronze Fork Bushings w/ rubber dampers.  Cost is $25.00 + $6.00 s&h shipping in the United States only, this will not get bushings to Canada or anywhere else. Email me with questions.

Attention, these work with stock fork lowers, or aftermarket legs that are the same diameter.

Stock replacements are $10 each, or $20 for a pair of injection molded plastic. Ours are precision machined to keep front end wiggle to a minimum. I have stiff front springs and I put a pair in my test bike (yes this is a biased review) and they make the front end much more accurate in corners. I found that laid over in corners and hard on the gas, I could search for a crease to get a good bite, something I could never do with the sloppy stock front end.

These bad boys drastically improve the feel of the front forks. Works great with most aftermarket and stock legs. Precision machined from high quality bronze.

If you want more than one pair of either of these, email me at  info@50ccracing.com  and we can work out cheaper shipping.

With these bronze fork bushings get an added feature. I'm sending a rubber washer to be placed on top of the bronze bushing, it will go between it and the graphite slider (the collar that has the spring pin going through it). This item is to reduce the clank when extending forks with heavy duty fork springs. All forks with HD springs can benefit from them. If you want to order just a pair of washers let me know and I'll get you a set for $2.00

Please note: If your fork are trashed, then a new bushing won't save them. Trashed includes anything bent or deformed, or if the chrome is all worn off your sliding fork lower. Since this product is made to tighter tolerances than stock you can reduce some free play in a trashed fork, but for sure not eliminate it.

These also work great with a brand new or a relatively new front end to tighten it up. Your forks don't need to be old to benefit from tighter tolerances.

Everything still  moves nice and free, just gets rid of a bunch of the wiggle. There will still be some wiggle, but not nearly what it was before. You can't get rid of all the slop and still have the forks move up and down. It's inherent in the design.  

email me at www.50ccracing.com  with any questions.

Product can also be purchased by mailing me a check. Be sure to indicate what you want and how many, and include your mailing address.

Send money order to: Jeff McLain, N3399 Cty Tk EE, Appleton WI 54915

Installation procedure:

This really isn't too bad. Tools required are a 14mm wrench for the top bolt, a 5/32" diameter pin  punch, and a snap ring pliers to release the internals. First of all, you put the bike up on a stand and remove the front wheel. You won't need to remove the entire front end, just lay on your back and remove the snap ring. After that's out, remove the top bolt and the fork guts will slide right out. Take the guts assembly over to your vice and clamp lightly on the graphite collar that is below the spring. Punch out the spring pin and the fork comes apart. Slide off the old plastic bushing and slide on the new. The rubber washer goes between the bronze bushing and the graphite slider. Its a cushion that will lessen the shock of the fork extending.

During reassembly remember to put the graphite collar on the right way. The longer end goes up. Take note of this and reassemble it properly. Also the spring pin needs to be punched in so it's about 1/16" under the surface so that it contacts both sides of the fork lower. Punch it in so it's centered in the fork leg.

Also remember to put the upper and lower half  back together the same way they came apart. There is a notch on the top half that will need to go towards the middle of the bike when the guts are put back up in the fork leg.

	Bronze on the left, stock plastic on the right. (I make them shorter now)		bike on the stand ready for a fork refreshening.
	These pics are the old long bushings that slammed when extending if you had stiff springs, I make them short now.		remove this snap ring....
	Assembled with bronze on the left, and stock plastic on the right		then unscrew this 14mm bolt....
	The spring pin is in the collar just above the bushing.		and the the fork guts just fall right out.

Look at the guts after you remove them and notice the notch at the top, and its relationship to the tabs at the bottom. The arrangement is that the notch at the top will go towards the middle of the bike when the fork guard tapped holes on the fork lower are towards the outside.

If after installation your fork still has a large amount of slop, replace your graphite top slider with an OEM replacement. Those two items are what the fork lower rides on. The lower bushings seem to wear out while the top graphite seems to hold up.

hey jeff, here's a pic of fiddy It's got foes brand new swingarm, foes chainguide, regina gold chain, Ishock w/res, 20mm carb, kitaco 75cc bore kit, takegawa cdi box, 15 tooth countershaft sprocket , BBR barkit, five-0 +1 fork legs, your awesome bronze fork bushings , SDG high seat, dunlop 756's, and Moto XXX graphics. The site is awesome keep up the great work. The guys here are riding this weekend so I 'll get some pics of our track since I'm still recovering from acl surgery I cant ride for 2 more months! (ouch) Later Rob A. in nor-cal

Or send a check to:

Jeff McLain

N3399 Cty Tk EE

Appleton WI 54915

920-882-8097